What Is The Difference Between Recreational and Commercial Fishing?

In the early era, fishing is done primarily for food consumption but nowadays, it is practiced not only for consumption but also for fun, research work, and industrial purposes. Technological advancements had made it easy to catch fish, however, there are still many people who prefer the traditional way of catching for the purpose of relaxation.

Modern day fishing is broadly categorized into recreational and commercial fishing.

Differentiating Recreational and Commercial

Recreational fishing is also known as sports fishing. This is usually done for fun and competition purposes. Using the basic method of catching, this type of fishing differs from commercial category in many ways. Fish catching in this category is usually done in lighter boats with rods, reels, hooks and baits. Lighter boats are used so as not to make disturbance for a successful catch.

Sometimes this is also done inland with the same equipment used, usually beside a lake.

What Is The Commercial or Industrial Fishing

Commercial fishing, if done on large scale, is also called an industrial fishing. This commercial type of fishing which uses equipment such as trawlers and factory ships aims to provide seafood supply for the market. Trawlers are used for commercial purposes while factory ships are used for industrial purposes.

Generally, the trawlers are equipped with nets, trawl and pot-traps. Factory ships on the other hand are large vessels with dynamic on-board facilities for immediate processing and freezing of caught seafood. These factory ships are capable of storing tons of seafood at a time. Unlike recreational fishing, commercial fishing is a serious revenue generating career for people. But it is considered as a very dangerous career line because of its high fatality rate.

The alarming rate of marine species extinction has also been attributed to this kind of industrial fishing.

What Is The Role of Government

Several non-profit organizations continuously file petition against recreational fishing as well as commercial fishing to protect other marine forms of life. Thus some government agencies were formed to monitor excessive catching of fish that can be dangerous for the existence of several marine species. Strict rules and regulations have been imposed to control catching of fish to a reasonable extent.

Like commercial fishing, recreational fishing is also subject to the intervention of the government. Government regulations make quotas, treaties and laws to control the catching of fishes otherwise the extinction of marine species will rise at an alarming rate.

Source by Nelson Paran

Fishing the Power Drop Shot Rig

Most people believe that the drop-shot rig is only for finesse fishing, but there is more than one way to skin a cat! (or Fish), as the case may be. The new Power Drop-Shot style started by Kotaro Kiriyama, is fast becoming the way to bigger and better bags on many of the tournament trails.

Drop-shot rigs consist of a hook tied above a sinker that is placed at the end of the line so that the lure suspends off the bottom. Conventional tackle consists of light action spinning gear and 4-8 pound line, and the tactic is usually deployed vertically in deep water.

Kiriyama says “Drop-Shotting is about presenting a soft plastic lure in a manner that is different from Texas rigging or Carolina rigging.” When conditions allow, Kiriyama, (who logged 10 Top 10 finishes in his first 37 events on tour), says “You may get more bites with lighter line and smaller baits, but when there is heavier cover, a power version is required.

This is a technique we have employed with success all last year, and now we are going to share it with you here in the Northeast. This technique works great in all the lakes, rivers, and impoundment’s here in the Northeast. It is a great way to put together a real quality stringer.

The drop shot’s configuration with the weight beneath the lure, makes it ideal for pitching into heavy cover. The reason, is that the sinker goes through cover better and falls right to the bottom.

You can fish faster and cover more water! We fish it just like other anglers fish a Texas rig, but like Kiriyama, we believe it is more effective! This is a great tactic for places like the Potomac River or Lakes such as Kerr or Gaston, where the fish are highly pressured and are used to seeing anglers flip Texas rigs and Carolina rigs. This gives the highly pressured fish a completely different look. The rig has some other advantages also. There is less line wear at the hook knot because the sinker isn’t beating against it, and the hook isn’t dragging the bottom where the line and knot can be damaged. You can also detect the bites a lot easier, because the sensation goes through the line without passing through a sinker that deadens the sensitivity. In lower Delaware we have a Bald Cypress swamp in one of the lakes, and there are also similar areas in the Nanticoke River. Most anglers flip these trees with Texas rigged worms in the 4 inch size or with a small lizard in the spring. We like the power drop shot rig in these areas the best. It attracts bass that are lying near the bottom or are suspended in cover down at the roots.

You can fish this rig either horizontally or vertically. In the heavy currents in the Sassafras River on the Upper Chesapeake Bay, we drag it from the calm water into the faster moving current, and catch largemouth holding near the edges waiting for an easy meal. You can also use this rig successfully in deep cover. This will work well in the standing timber in Table Rock Lake when fished on a Fluorocarbon line in 10-16 pound test. We have used 30 pound test when the fish were aggressive, and gone down to 10 pound when the bite is tougher. This is a clear to stained water technique though, and works much better in these conditions. There are areas here in the Northeast that have extremely clear water at times, and it excels in those areas. We use this around deep points also with great success. Waters such as Spruce Run and Greenwood in New Jersey and New York are great areas to use the Power Drop shot. We use it anywhere you would normally use a Carolina or Texas rig.

When we flip the Power Drop shot rig we use 6 and 6 1/2 inch Yamamoto Cut Tail worms. We have tried a variety of other baits with this rig, but the straight tail and Cut-Tail worms have produced the best results. When you are flipping it in fairly light cover, you can go with a lighter sinker of 1/16 of an ounce, and as the cover gets thicker, we go as high as 3/8 of an ounce. Since the start of 2003, we have been using nothing but the Tungsten weights for all our baits. We believe this is especially important with the Power Drop Shot also, as the Tungsten is heavier than lead, allowing for a smaller profile, which penetrates the cover better, and allows for a better feel of the bottom.

We generally rig the baits with a 2/0 to a 3/0 Gamakatsu or X-Point hook, but we will go as high as a 5/0 on some of the bigger worms at times. The general rule when using this rig for flipping is simple; The distance between the hook and the weight, is no more than 3-6 inches longer than the bait itself.

The rig is simple to use, no fancy tricks are needed. Just drop the bait around cover and let it sit. No other action is necessary because of the way the bait suspends off the line. The natural current of the water imparts all the action you need. We use this on bedding bass also, since we have no closed season here in Delaware during the tournaments. The technique is just like any other type of flipping we do. We drop it in near the cover, let it sit a few seconds if the bass are being finicky, and then lift it up and pitch it to the next target.

Try Power Drop Shotting this year in your local waters when everyone else is throwing a Texas or Carolina rig, and you will get a big surprise!

Source by Steven Vonbrandt

Seven Fraternity Recruitment Event Ideas

Fraternity recruitment is always tough. It is tough to meet new people, and then actually get them to join your fraternity. Here are some great ideas that will help you be successful during fraternity rush.

One – Go to your university athletic events. It is a lot of fun to tailgate for a football game or basketball game. The event will promise to be a great time. This is the base for a fantastic fraternity recruitment event. Also, and probably best of all, it is free! Take advantage of it.

Two – Have an invite only dinner. An invite only dinner as a recruitment event is a great way to add prestige to your fraternity rush. Food always attracts guys. And best of all, this is a great way to expose the potential new members to your fraternity and your brotherhood.

Three – Mix with a sorority. Think about it. An event with a lot of girls (normally the prettiest girls on campus) is sure to attract a lot of guys. Also, it will be a ton of fun for all your brothers. This is a no-brainer for a great recruitment event.

Four – Do something athletic. Fraternity athletics are important. You obviously want to recruit to get better, more athletic brothers. Play hoops or play football to figure out which one of your recruits are good athletes.

Five – Go to a concert. One of the best recruitment events I ever went to was a concert. We purchased a ton of lawn tickets, and had a blast. We rented a bus to get to and from the event. After the concert we all went back to the fraternity house and had a good time. It was a great event.

Six – Go to a comedy club. Buy a block of tickets up front, and you will become part of the show. When a comedian busts on a brother the entire chapter will have a memory. Everyone will laugh and have a great time.

Seven – Have a smoker. Buy a bunch of cigars, and then smoke them while telling great stories of the fraternity’s past. Let the recruits as questions about the fraternity, and encourage open dialogue. This is a quick way to get the potential new members to bond with the brothers.

These seven events are easy to pull off, and are great ways to recruit new members. Keep in mind that there are a lot of things that are just as, if not more, important in fraternity recruitment than just having great events. If your fraternity wants to be successful during fraternity rush, then you need to always be meeting new people and finding guys that have high potential to become future brothers.

Source by Jack Hagerty

How to Maintain Golf Focus and Concentration – Why Do You “Lose” Focus in a Golf Round?

Do you lose concentration at times in your golf round and it ends up costing you shots?

You know as well as I that in order to fix a problem we first need to know what the problem is right? Well what if I told you that the problem with trying to fix your loss of concentration is that you actually think you are losing concentration. In other words I am saying that you are not losing concentration and until you appreciate that then you will not solve your problem on the golf course. It is my belief that you really cannot lose something like concentration in the normal run of things but that in fact you switch concentration from where it should be to somewhere else.

Because you realise that your concentration has not been on your golf, you tend to run with the false belief that you have somehow lost the ability to concentrate. Saying that you have lost your concentration is like saying you have lost part of your mind for a while. You would be amazed at how many times golfers tell me they lost focus for a few holes and then managed to find it again! Wow! Where did they lose it? Did they lose it in the hedge and go back and find it. Did they misplace it in their golf bag for a few holes?

They are not losing anything, certainly not the part of their mind that is responsible for focus and concentration. They are simply not adhering to a Professional Swing Sequence, commonly called a Pre-Shot Routine, which is actually the very mechanism which, when applied correctly, will make sure that you are fully focussed for each and every shot whether it is a two foot putt or a full blooded drive.

And when we say fully focussed we mean fully focussed on the right things that will actually help you perform better rather than your focus wandering onto things that are detrimental to peak performance. It is during these switches in focus that shots go and golfers believe they have lost focus. Remember you have just allowed your focus to wander to the wrong places. This realisation is the first step in solving the issue and the next step is to learn, implement and adhere strictly to the Professional Swing Sequence or as others call it the Pre-Shot Routine.

Are you losing your focus at similar times in a round? You could be getting dehydrated.

OK there is one caveat to this in that if you allow yourself to become dehydrated then your brain will no longer be able to function properly and this will certainly interfere with your ability to focus and concentrate. If you find that you are thirsty, your body is shouting out for water. If you develop a slight headache then you are already dehydrated and it is going to take quite a few holes to get your hydration and brain function back to normal. The lesson here is never taking a chance on hydration and make sure you drink more than you think you need on a regular basis around the course. On a hot day playing 18 holes of golf you will need several litres of pure clean water. (if you are drinking high sugar liquids or even worse alcohol, don’t bother reading on, I have no sympathy for you or your game. Alcohol around the golf course is for golfers who just aren’t serious about playing their best. Were you out for a heavy night of celebrating the night before? Still hung over? Your golf will suffer so make sure the party was worth it!

Summary.

If you are dehydrated or chemically imbalanced through alcohol or drug use then your brain will not be functioning normally, you have not lost brain function, you have interfered with it by allowing dehydration or inducing harmful chemicals into your system. Remember that your brain is the largest user of water in your body and suffers badly when dehydrated by as little as 10%. Drink more water and less alcohol! Drink water regularly around the golf course to prevent “in play” dehydration which will certainly cost you shots.

Dehydration and chemicals aside, you are not losing concentration or focus. You are allowing it to go somewhere else and realising this is the first part to solving it. Develop a solid Sequence of processes that you go through for every shot which will, as one of its benefits keep you focussed on the shot at hand. Develop a Professional Swing Sequence and watch your game (and focus) come alive!

Source by Mark H Wright

5 Tips to Manage Labor Costs

Here are 5 tips to manage labor costs:

1) Hire right.

How many times have you hired someone and weeks later said to yourself, where did the person I hired go? No matter how perfect the candidate presents themselves in an interview, you truly can’t know what type of employee they will be until they begin working. However, there are actions you can take to hire the best candidate the first time. Consider administering testing that assesses whether people are a “right fit for the job”. Need help? Contact Predictive Results at 904.269.2299 x102.

2) Hire temporary help.

It is common for organizations to have peak periods or seasonal spikes. A golf course may have more golfers in certain season than others. A restaurant may have more patrons during lunch time and dinner time than in the middle of the afternoon. Regardless of your need, consider checking into a temporary agency to help reduce labor expenses and meet the peak requirements. Temporary agencies are an excellent way to cut labor expenses and remain consistent with production, customer service, and sales.

3) Use technology.

Replace labor intensive jobs with technology. Computers and the right computer software can automate many manual tasks and eliminate errors. In addition, software ensures and easy, impartial, and orderly approach in addressing specific needs without any confusion. In fact, software has been shown to have a better accuracy rate than manual systems.

4) Streamline processes.

Think efficiency. Create policies and procedures that employees can follow to make their jobs easier and faster. Most issues that occur on a daily basis have been addressed before. For example, if you’re in the country club business you have had to address an unsatisfied member. Create protocol for handling this type of issue. Be sure to include specific information. Include verbiage and body language to be used, as well as, resolution options.

5) Avoid overtime.

Paying 1.5 to 2 times the regular hourly rate for overtime, adds up quickly, and can be a big chunk of labor expense. Cut overtime labor costs by hiring right, making use of temporary help, using efficient technology, and streamlining processes.

Source by Christine P. Smith

Frozen Emotions Means Anxiety

How does a person get emotionally frozen? When all their feelings and emotions are trapped deep, down inside and act as a one big aching pain in their body? Crying acts like a release for these emotions but when you can’t cry your body cries out for release.

In some ways it is one of the most painful thing anyone can live through. To go through their days and nights with all this pain trapped deep down inside of them. When a loved one dies and you can’t get the emotion’s out.

Of course, the emotion has to come out in some kind of way, maybe in headaches, pain in various parts of your body or in dizziness. The worst part is anxiety. You feel and appear anxious and when you get nervous

or stressed the anxiety becomes unbearable. It takes over your mind and body and soon you can’t function.

Sleeping is a thing of the past. Your mind runs and runs, and do you really remember what you were thinking about all those hours when you should have been sleeping?

The next step is seeing a Psychiatrist and taking anxiety medication which may or may not work. The side effects, if you read the papers which come along with each prescription bottle are pages long. You can’t win for losing.

What can you do when this happens to you?

1. Sports where you are moving your body is good.

2. Swimming is fabulous it really works your entire body including your mind.

3. Water aerobics is a little different from swimming. It tones your body into a sculptured piece of art.

4. Walking by yourself or with a friend is also very therapeutic.

5. Paint a room in your house. Make it colorful. You will get physical exercise and boost your self-esteem.

6. Take your dog for a good long walk. Stop and talk to the neighbors. You might meet neighbors who have lived in your neighborhood for years and never met before.

7. Talk to a therapist.

8. Join a support group.

9. Write about it. You do not need to share it with anybody just for yourself.

10. Try deep breathing. It really helps calm you down.

The object here is to keep your mind and body busy so you won’t think of all the pain trapped in your body. Someday something might happen out of the blue that you see or read and the water works will start.

Release of all the emotions trapped in your body will come tumbling out. But until that happens to you try the above suggestions or add your own. Everybody has some kind of hobby or interest they can get lost in. Get lost in yours.

Thank you for reading my article. Please feel free to read any of the various articles I have written on numerous subjects in the past years.

Linda E. Meckler

Copyright 2010

Source by Linda Meckler

Poodles – One of the World’s Smartest Breeds

Come with me as I take a look at the Wonderful World of Poodles.

History

Although the national breed of France, the Poodle actually originated in Germany where it was used as a water retriever. Many believe the name “Pudel” comes from the German word “pudel” which means “one who plays in water.”

In fact, the famous “Poodle Clip” was created by hunters to help the breed swim faster and more efficiently. The clip was not created as a decorative element. It was created to protect certain vital organs and joints of the breed in cold water.

The term “French Poodle” comes from France’s capitalization of the breed’s intelligence, trainability and eagerness to perform. The French turned poodles into popular circus performers where they gained notoriety and became Louis XVI and Queen Anne’s court favorites. They have long since been associated with royalty. Even America’s President, Grover Cleveland, owned a poodle.

The Standard Poodle, the largest of the three recognized varieties, is the oldest of the breed. All of the poodle’s ancestors were water dogs known for their swimming abilities.

Characteristics

The poodle is the only breed that comes in three AKC registered varieties. The three recognized types are the Standard Poodle, the Miniature Poodle and the Toy Poodle. The Standard is the tallest, measuring over 15 inches. The Miniature is 15 inches or under, but a minimum of 10 inches. The Toy is under 10 inches.

The breed comes in a variety of solid colors, including white, black, apricot and gray.

The Poodle is an exceptionally intelligent dog that excels in obedience training. Its intelligence and ability to learn makes it one of the most popular breeds in the world. It is considered one of the easiest breeds to train. Also, its hypoallergenic coat makes it a favorite amongst owners. It does not shed, but does require grooming on a regular basis. The breed adapts well to any living conditions, making it an ideal pet for apartments. However, it is an active dog and does require daily exercise.

The Poodle carries itself proudly and has a very distinct air of dignity. The word “elegant” is most often used to describe the breed. The Poodle is known to be shy, but sharp at the same time. Poodles are reserved with strangers and unless trained at an early age, can bark excessively.

The Standard Poodle (Caniche, Barbone, Chien Canne)

The Standard Poodle is considered to be a large dog of high intelligence and trainability. Elegant, strong and good natured, it makes an excellent family dog. It has a thick, soft, curly coat that does not shed but requires daily grooming. The ears are wide and hang close to the head. The eyes are very dark and alert. The feet are compact and the breed has an effortless and delightful gait (like walking on air.)

The Standard Poodle is pleasant, happy and generally easy to maintain. It is a loyal companion but unlike the Miniature and Toy varieties of the breed, can be less sensitive to its surroundings and does not bond to one owner or one household as much. It is considered the calmer of the Poodle varieties. Standard Poodles are friendly and excellent with children and other dogs.

Height: 15 inches

Weight: 45-70 pounds

Life Expectancy: 12-15 years

The Standard Poodle is inactive indoors and even a small yard is acceptable. However they do require daily walks. They are not overly demanding but their temperament is based on their living conditions.

This is a long lived breed but it is subject to certain genetic diseases like most dogs. Cataracts, skin conditions (from allergies to certain shampoos,) hip dysplasia, runny nose and ear infections are common. Also, the breed is subject to bloating, so only feed it two to three small meals a day instead of one or two large meals.

The Miniature Poodle (Caniche)

The Miniature Poodle is considered to be a medium dog of high intelligence and trainability. More cheerful and playful than the Standard variety of poodle, it has a thick, soft, curly coat that does not shed but requires daily grooming. The ears are wide and hang close to the head. The eyes are very dark and alert. The feet are compact and the breed has a spunky gait.

The Miniature Poodle is an amusing, often curious dog. It is a loyal companion that insists on being included in all of its owner’s activities. It can learn tricks effortlessly. It is considered less calm than the Standard Poodle, but not as feisty as the Toy Poodle. Most Miniature Poodles love children and other dogs but they will exhibit jealous tendencies and can display sharp reactions. They can be over playful and must be trained early on that there is a limit to play time. Overall, they are friendly and make excellent pets.

Height: 11-15 inches

Weight: 15-17 pounds

Life Expectancy: 12-15 years

The Miniature Poodle is a good dog for apartment life. They are active indoors but do fine without a yard. However they do require daily walks. They are not overly demanding but their temperament is based on their living conditions.

This is a long lived breed but it is subject to certain genetic diseases like most dogs. Cataracts, skin conditions (from allergies to certain shampoos,) hip dysplasia, runny nose and ear infections are common. Also, the breed is subject to bloating, so only feed it two to three small meals a day instead of one or two large meals.

The Toy Poodle (Caniche, Chien Canne, Tea Cup)

The Toy Poodle is considered to be a small dog of high intelligence and trainability. More sensitive than the Standard and Toy varieties, it is also considered the smartest of the three. It has a thick, soft, curly coat that does not shed but requires daily grooming. The ears are small and long and hang close to the head. The eyes are very dark and alert. The feet are compact and the breed has a perfect gait.

The Toy Poodle is sensitive but extremely intelligent. They are very responsive and alert. They can be a delight, but also demanding. They do not like strangers and are reserved around children and other dogs. They are known to snap if they are teased, surprised or mishandled.

They generally bond with one owner for life and they are extremely loyal to that individual and will defend them at all cost, despite their size. However, a true “lap dog,” the Toy Poodle expects an equal amount of loyalty and love in return. They adapt better to one dog households and do not do well with small children. The Toy Poodle is considered the least calm of the three poodle varieties.

Height: up to 10 inches

Weight: 3-8 pounds

Life Expectancy: 12-15 years

The Toy Poodle is a good dog for apartment life. They adapt very well to “city life.” They require little indoor or outdoor activities but nonetheless, should be socialized with a daily walk. They are demanding dogs and can bark excessively if left alone for long periods of time.

This is a long lived breed but it is subject to certain genetic diseases like most dogs. Cataracts, skin conditions (from allergies to certain shampoos,) hip dysplasia, runny nose and ear infections are common. Also, the breed is subject to bloating, so only feed it two to three small meals a day instead of one or two large meals.

Choosing Your Poodle

Never is it more essential to choose a responsible and well-respected breeder than when choosing a Poodle Puppy.

As you’ve already learned from reading this article, dogs come in many different colors, sizes and TEMPERAMENTS!

Poodles especially fall into this category. You can end up with a great pet or a nightmare. Fortunately, with a little bit of research and homework ahead of time, you’ll minimize the risk of a difficult pet and maximize your chances of a truly wonderful new companion.

I recommend everyone get the definitive guide to choosing a dog breed. This book will help you make the right choice. It was written by Marcel Cobs, very well respected in the industry. A dog is a companion for life. Making sure you choose the right breed should be step one. When you buy a car, you do not buy the very first car, on the very first lot, on the nearest street, do you? You do a little research. Choosing a dog is no different and this is the ONLY guide I have ever recommended.

How to Choose the Right Dog for You! By Marcel Cobs

A practical guide to guarantee you and your new best friend enjoy a great life together. If you have any interest at all in getting a dog… if you want to find out what type of dog you should get to fit you and your family… or you just want to figure out whether you should get a dog or not… then this book was written just for you. Comes with eBook and professional mp3 audio recordings included!

You can email me and I’ll provide you the link to get the book.

Once you’ve decided on the type of dog you are getting, I suggest you check your local shelter. There are thousands and thousands of dogs in need of good homes and yes, some are pure breed dogs. It’s a misconception that only “mutts” can be found in shelters (by the way….some of the best dogs I’ve owned or simply known, were mutts!)

The name of your local shelter can always be found in your Yellow Pages or online. Or you can simply go to The Humane Society of the United States website. Call your local shelter and ask them to notify you if a specific type or breed of dog comes in. Many are more than happy to keep you on a notify list, but some are not.

Second, I recommend you contact breed rescue organizations. You can Google breed rescue organizations by simply typing in the name of the breed and then the words “rescue organizations.” These organizations have dedicated volunteers who work tirelessly to find homes for purebred dogs and yes, many times THEY DO have puppies.

Finally, if you have not found what you are looking for at a shelter or through a rescue organization, I recommend you find a reputable breeder in your area. How will you know if they are reputable? Do some research and do a little homework. Also, try to visit more than one. Don’t just buy the first puppy you see. Here are some helpful hints:

General

Check the Better Business Bureau. It’s amazing to me how many people forget to do this! It’s free and it takes about two seconds. Do it!

Health

1. Do the puppies look clean and do they appear healthy? – Puppies should be bright eyed, active, playful and have an outward appearance of good health (good skin and coat, no unusual odor, clean ears, etc.)

2. Have the puppies been checked for worms? – The puppy should have been examined for worms and the breeder should present you with proof that it has received at least one vaccination before it goes home with you.

3. Have the parents been x-rayed for hip dysplasia? – This is a genetic disorder that many dogs are prone to. The breeder should know all about hereditary diseases and should breed healthy dogs with good temperaments.

Early Socialization

1. Are the puppies friendly? Do they seem happy to be around you? – Puppies should be outgoing, begging to be picked up, competing for attention, and love being held and played with. A very timid puppy might tug at your heartstrings but chances are it’s not in good health.

2. Insist on seeing the mother. Is she friendly and attractive? – At 6 weeks old, the mother should no longer be overprotective of her puppies. Insist on seeing the father. How is he with visitors? DO NOT buy puppies whose parents do not have good temperaments.

3. How old are the puppies? – Puppies should not be removed from their litters before 6 weeks. They need to be around their littermates for at least 6 weeks. Seven or eight weeks are even better. However, there is a limit. A puppy that is kept with its littermates past the age of 10 weeks may have become too dependent on its mother.

4. Has the breeder begun to socialize the puppies? – You can tell if a breeder has given each puppy some individual attention, care, and training. Don’t be shy. Ask the breeder about this! Ask him, “what have you done to begin socializing this puppy?”

The Breeder

1. Is the breeder experienced with the breed? – The breeder should be able to answer any questions about the breed and agree to help you with any problems. After all, this is why you are buying from a breeder and not a pet shop.

2. Has the breeder gone over both the good and bad characteristics of the breed? – Every breed has good points and bad. No breed can be considered “perfect.” The breeder should be honest with you. Some of the best breeders I know refuse to sell certain breeds to families with small children or owners who live in apartments, etc. It seems harsh and unfair, but actually they are doing you and their puppies a favor. Don’t fall for the hard sell. There is no reason you should be pressured in any way. If you feel like you are going through a hard sell, walk away.

3. Has the breeder suggested further obedience training? – Many responsible breeders make this a requirement for the sale. All dogs need training. Don’t be put off by this. This means they have the best interest of the dog in mind.

4. Does the breeder offer any kind of “starter kit”? – The breeder should give you some materials to take home. The “kit” will probably include some dog food, instructions on the care and feeding of your pup, a list of necessary supplies to have at home, dog care books, and some information on Veterinarians and dog training schools.

5. How about the paperwork? Is it all in order? – You should receive a contract (signed by both you and the seller), and a pedigree. You should not have to pay extra for the pedigree.

Your Part In All This

1. Are you willing to make a long term commitment to this puppy? – When you purchase a puppy, you are making a very serious, long term commitment to the care, training and love of this dog. This animal will live for a dozen years or more and it is your responsibility to do everything possible to keep it well and happy for its entire life.

Hope you’ve enjoyed “Poodles: A Look At The World’s Smartest Dog Breed.”

Ellen Weber

Source by Ellen Weber

Coarse Fishing Tackle Review: The Daiwa Exceler S4000 Fishing Reel

Like many anglers, I don’t have a great deal of money to spend on my fishing gear. So, when I want to add a piece of coarse fishing tackle to my collection, I always need to consider the price. Over the years, I’ve found that Daiwa products offer an optimal combination of price and performance. For that reason, I’m quite partial to them. Daiwa has a worldwide reputation for excellence, so choosing one of their products means you’re opting for superior fishing equipment. Here’s a brief review of a Daiwa reel I’ve recently acquired: the Exceler S4000.

Coarse Fishing Tackle: Key Features of the Daiwa Exceler S4000 Fishing Reel

The Exceler range of reels is famous for its superior performance and exceptional versatility. Regardless of the species you’re stalking — from the humble barbel to the noble pike — the S4000 will be a valuable ally in the fight. The product line features a precision moulded body and rotor, which means the reel will feel quite comfortable, as well as be very durable. Durability is important to me, so I do appreciate this feature in the S4000. The gear ratio is 4.9:1, and the reel has a wider spool, so it’s every bit as powerful and functional as other fishing tackle in its class. This reel can crank 86cm of line with each turn of the handle, and also has Daiwa’s vaunted DigiGear2 system.

Coarse Fishing Tackle: More About the Daiwa Exceler S4000 Fishing Reel

For about £79.99, this is a great piece of coarse fishing tackle that’s loaded with many of Daiwa’s well-known features, including TwistBuster2 that virtually eliminates line twist. The S4000 also has infinite anti-reverse, and advanced level wind. The reel will hold about 190m or 14lb test fishing line, and weighs 14.1oz. I was glad to learn that the design process at Daiwa uses the latest in computer-aided design technology, so that precise performance is virtually guaranteed. The reel’s body is made from a strong die-cast aluminium alloy body, along with a machined aluminium spool, both of which help to minimise overall weight. The S4000 has 7 ball bearings, 2 of which are CRBBs (corrosion resistant ball bearings). Finally, the reel comes with a spare aluminium spool.

Coarse Fishing Tackle: Final Thoughts on the Exceler S4000 Reel

On a recent fishing trip, I had the occasion to loan the S4000 to a friend who’s quite particular about his gear. Here are his comments:

“I’ve looked at and used more fishing tackle than I’d care to admit. This Daiwa reel has just the right combination of price with quality. The cast and retrieve are exceptionally smooth, and the reel has an overall high-calibre look and feel. I think it would be quite durable as well, a feature that’s important to me. I’m certain it would do well in a wide variety of angling applications and venues.”

Enough said! The Daiwa Exceler S4000 reel is a superior piece of coarse fishing tackle for the price. Highly recommended!

Source by Tommy Lee Jones

Three Great Tips for Golf Swing Success

When you want to swing the golf club better, you need to find tips that fit with what you are trying to do. If you slice the ball, you don’t want tips about how to fade the golf ball or swing like Tiger Woods does currently. This won’t help you much. Just like, if you are a beginner, you don’t want advanced tips meant for someone with a low handicap.

Getting the right tips for your golf swing will make a huge difference, if you know how to use them. There are many tips online, in books, and all over the golf magazines, but if you just pick up any magazine or browse any site for tips, you might not find the ones that are right for you. Below are three golf tips to help you and whom they work best for.

1. The Christmas Tree Effect

This tip fits with every golfer and helps with those that are beginners or even those with a mid to low handicap. If you look at the shape of a Christmas tree, it starts very wide at the bottom and gets smaller and smaller towards the top. Now, if we split it in half with a line down the middle we will have the diagram we are looking for.

The middle line is a perfectly straight shot, the right side is a fade/slice, and the left side is a draw/hook, assuming you are a right-handed golfer. For a lefty, just switch it around and you will be set. The goal is to climb up the Christmas tree to the top. This is how professional golfers get to where their missed shots are very small misses instead of hooks or slices out of bounds.

You may be right at the base of the tree, somewhere in the middle, or even close to the top. It doesn’t matter you skill level to use this diagram. The basic teaching concept is to take someone that slices the ball and teach them how to hook the ball. When they learn to hit a huge hook, then can start working on lessening that hook until they start fading the ball regularly. The opposite will work for those that hook the ball.

You will go back and forth up the tree until you can hit a draw or fade, but the large slice or hook becomes less and less normal for you. This is how a player can cure their slice or get rid of a duck hook.

2. Toe wins the Race

When you look at the club head, you will notice it has a heel and a toe. If you slice the golf ball, it is because the face is open at impact. A slice describes the curve of the ball and if you just hit the ball straight to the right (for a right-handed player), then you are pushing the ball. That is completely different.

However, if you hit the ball straight at the beginning and it curves to the right, then you slice the golf ball. To fix this, you need to think about the toe of the club head getting to the ball before the heel gets there. This will help you to close the face at impact and will allow you to hit the ball straighter.

3. Back to the Target as Long as Possible

This tip is for the golfer that pulls the ball or even hooks the ball. Most golfers get to this point after they fix their slice or during the process. Pulling the golf ball is usually caused by the front shoulder opening too soon. This can be fixed by keeping your back to the target as long as possible. You can actually use this as a swing thought on the golf course.

Getting the best tips for your golf swing may seem difficult, and the last thing you want to do is try everything found in every magazine, book, or online. This will just cause confusion. In addition, you should know there is no such thing as a “Quick Fix” in golf. You will need to put in the work, practice with new drills, and work with the tips you choose before you see lasting results.

Source by Jones Harington

How to Destroy Your Shank for Good and Never Let It Unnerve Your Golf Game

Even Tiger Woods has shanked the ball when he least expected it. A shank can send panic into your game because the club head swing path that creates a shank is so close to that of a perfect shot…

Experiencing a shank during a round can be so unnerving that some golfers fall into pure despair when it creeps into their game because the results of a shank are never good.

Recently I conducted an online lesson with a very enthusiastic student from England who suddenly started experiencing the shanks with his short game. Fortunately, we fixed the problem right away.

I thought it would be useful to share some of the points we covered because at one time during your golf career a shank will pop up when you are least expecting it and if you follow these corrections, you can nip it in the bud before it takes over your total golf psyche!

Where shanks occur

As was the case with my student, a shank occurs mostly on short “feely” chip shots where there is not much hand action at impact.

A shank can also occur in the games of golfers who have a severe hook who open their club face at address or try to slow down their hand action on the downswing to counter the hook effect.

Where shanks seldom occur

Although a shank can occur with most swing paths, golfers who experience a fade or slice in their games are very unlikely to experience a shank…so you guys can relax a little.

Swing mechanics of a shank

At impact with the ball the following conditions occur to generate the shank:

– The ball comes in contact with the heel of the club, not the club face

– The club face is wide open at contact

– In most cases, the club head swing path is coming from “inside to out” as it comes in contact with the ball

The last point may seem a little strange because many golfers strive for an “inside to out” swing path to create a draw flight path which is why a shank occurs on a swing path that many would say is close to a perfect shot…

How to correct a shank and kill it for good

Here are a few corrections you can make to eliminate a shank immediately:

– Rotate your hands more into the ball so that you lead into the shot with the back of the left hand facing towards the target at impact and not pointing skywards.

Try this little exercise to give you a better understanding of the hand position that generates a shank at impact:

If you have a correct grip that is not overly “strong”, stand in the address position with a club in your left hand. Now rotate your hand to the right until the back of your hand is aiming skywards.

You will observe that the club face is wide open with the heel leading into the ball.

This is the most likely hand position that will generate a shank at impact and explains why a shank occurs more on “feely” short shots where there is less hand action.

– It is always better to shorten your backswing on short chip shots to accelerate your hands through the ball at impact rather than try to slow the hands down on the downswing for fear of over shooting the shot.

– Also on short chips shots, aim the club face at the target and open your stance to create an “outside in” club head swing path. You will seldom hit a shank if the club head swing path is coming into the ball from “outside in”, even if the club face is wide open.

– On other shots, close the club face a little at address which will take the heel more out of play at impact.

– Make sure you are not standing too upright or too close to the ball at setup. Standing too close to the ball will naturally encourage you to hit the ball more on the shaft end of the club face.

– Check that you are not using a “closed stance” at address that would exaggerate the “inside out” swing path on the downswing.

– Do not rotate your hands to the right immediately on the take away. This flattens the swing and exaggerates the” inside out” club head motion of the swing on the downswing.

Any one or combination of these corrections will eliminate a shank for good.

Good luck and swing sweetly!

Source by Les Ross